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Scientists have found that wild yeasts vary from region to region, and can have a unique influence if used in the wine-making process.
Winemakers wanting to make wines expressive of a specific place are advised to get rid of generic yeasts and let nature take control of their ferments. Photo / Supplied
Climate, soil and geography have long been recognised playing an important role in shaping the character of a region's wines and whose interplay is at the heart of the French concept of terroir. However, a breakthrough by New Zealand scientists now suggests that an area's yeasts could play their part in regional differences as well, with the discovery that communities and strains of wine yeasts vary from region to region.
As well as playing their crucial role in a wine's alcoholic fermentation, yeasts were already known to be responsible for a significant portion of the compounds that can be smelled and tasted in a wine. But proving that different regions possessed significantly different yeast populations, is a world first.
Conducted by Velimir Gayevskiy and Dr Matthew Goddard of the School of Biological Sciences at the University of Auckland and funded by NZ Winegrowers and MSI, the study detected distinct differences between the so-called "wild" or "indigenous" yeasts found on syrah and chardonnay grapes and in their corresponding spontaneous ferments in three separate New Zealand regions.
Wild yeasts are those that exist naturally on grapes and in the vineyard, which left to their own devices will spontaneous start a grape's fermentation into wine.
However, nowadays many wines - especially those made in larger volumes - will be inoculated with cultured yeasts. These behave in a more predictable and reliable manner than their wild counterparts and can be selected by the winemaker for specific characteristics.
In the light of these findings, winemakers wanting to make wines most expressive of a specific place might want to dispense with generic yeasts from a packet and let nature take control of their ferments, as was the way in the past. An earlier study by Goddard already proved that New Zealand's yeasts more generally were something special, in being a genetically distinct population of the main wine yeast, Saccharomyces cerevisiae.
Surprisingly, research into regionally specific yeast populations is currently confined to New Zealand. Not even France, that bastion of regional difference and respected centre of wine research has probed their yeast populations so deeply.
However, Goddard surmises similar results could be seen across other winemaking nations. "My gut feeling is that New Zealand isn't the only country that can objectively claim this difference," he tells me. "I wouldn't be surprised if this was the same in other parts of the world, but that remains to be seen."
Yeasts do appear to get about a bit though. Earlier Goddard detected what appeared to be French yeasts that had hitched a ride in new barrels imported from France and in this recent study found evidence that some yeasts maybe being moved between regions.
This discovery of regionally specific yeasts opens up a whole new chapter in research into the complexities of these single-cell fungi and their applications in wine. Goddard and his team now plan to look into what's driving these differences, which could be down to natural selection and related to factors such as climate.
Another exciting angle they're about to pursue is attempting to identify the yeasts responsible for specific aromas and flavours that could contribute to a regional signature. These could then potentially go on to be isolated and then harnessed by winemakers to make wine with particular strong regional characters.
"For the first time, these findings suggest that yeasts could be part of that regional influence and of a wine's terroir," Goddard states. "This is important as it not only adds to the story or provenance behind a region's wine, but it may also afford New Zealand winemakers local novel tools to help ensure New Zealand continues to produce high-quality, distinctive wines."
LOCAL DESIGN
Wines that have benefited from our local yeasts:
NATURAL BEAUTY FancrestEstate Di's WaiparaPinot Noir 2009 $32 Biodynamic from its inception and pinot noir-focused, Fancrest is a new WaiparaEstate that's one to watch. Its latest release has a gossamer-like texture and unfurls to display layers of pretty cherry plum fruit, florals, savoury spice and hints of smoke and game.
INDIGENOUS JOURNEY Odyssey Reserve Iliad Gisborne Chardonnay 2010 $36 A wild barrel ferment has likely added to the texture of this rich chardonnay, with its toasty palate of ripe fig, stone fruit and savoury undertones counterpoised by fresh citrus. (From Glengarry, Caro's, Wine Vault, Fine Wine Delivery Company.)
WILD PORTION Pasquale Waitaki Valley Pinot Gris 2010 $27 Some winemakers opt to include a portion of wine that's been fermented by wild yeasts for complexity, as is the case of this intense drier style of pinot gris with its notes of crisp apple and nashi pear, infused with ginger, mineral and hints of hazelnut. (From Wine Vault, Caro's, The Merchant of Tirau, Point Wines, Primo Vino.)
The aroma is a gentle yet pervasive blend of plums, spice and oak; perfumed with raisin-like richness and some attractive dustiness.
Dusty tannins, warming spiciness and juicy plum fruitiness dominate the palate. This delightful wine is beautifully integrated, silky, herbal and generous. A very rewarding wine, substantial without being overbearing and certainly worth seeking out.
Buy at Pukeko Junction, SH 1 north of Christchurch or go to fancrest.com
Bob Campbell is one of only 264 Masters of Wine in the world. An international wine judge, Bob judges wine professionally in ten countries and contributes regularly to publications around the world. His specialty is New Zealand wine which he reviews from an international perspective.
Fine, taut and focused Pinot Noir with a mix of floral, red cherry, spice, mineral and wild herb flavours. An edgy and appealing style with a drying and very slightly bitter finish that detracts slightly. A bit of a curate's egg. On balance I like the wine quite a lot.
The above price is the estimated retail price given by the wine maker when it was submitted for review. It may not reflect the actual current market price. USD pricing is a simple currency conversion from NZD and may not reflect the actual US retail pricing.
Fancrest Estate 2010 Di’s Pinot Noir ($42) is deeply coloured and perfumed with black tea, and savoury, earthy notes which carry through to the palate. The tannins have definite grip, and the fruit is ripe and robust enough to indicate great potential in the cellar. www.fancrest.com
Fine Waipara Pinot Noir makes its mark
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It's really nice to get good reviews! All we ever wanted was to make serious wines to enjoy with great food. Seems we did it! Just love the food combination ideas. Makes it all the back breaking work worth while... Hmmmm....
Fancrest Estate is a specialist organic producer in the Waipara Valley based at Omihi. Diane and Ian Holding have a young 5.4 ha vineyard planted in 2003 to Pinot Noir (and a few Pinot Gris vines in Burgundian fashion) on limestone soil. The aim is total quality with hands-on work and low yields at under 2 tonnes per hectare. The initial wines were made at the Successors winery, now known as Crater Rim, but the Di Holding finished off the 2009s and 2010 wines, and entirely made the 2011s at their ‘open air' winery at the vineyard site, wanting to have greater control of the vinification and elevage. Using contract facilities is "like cooking in someone else's kitchen” says Di. Fancrest became fully BioGrocertified organic in March 2010. This review covers the four vintages produced, and all show bold flavours and vintage representation. This is a Waipara ValleyPinot Noir producer to follow. www.fancrest.com
FEATURED WINES IN THIS REVIEW
Fancrest Estate ‘Di's' Waipara Pinot Noir 2007
Pinot Noir from New Zealand – Canterbury & Waipara
18/20
The first crop from the ‘Fancrest' site, 90% destemmed without crushing and indigenous yeast fermented to 13.0% alc., the wine aged 11 months in approx.. 60% new French oak barriques. Dark, very deep and full ruby-red colour with black hues, this has a solid, dense and full nose of ripe black berry and plum fruit with violetty perfumes and complex notes of spices, minerals and mushrooms. Medium-full bodied, this is a rich, dense and succulent wine with mouthfilling flavours of ripe black fruits and plums. The palate is plush with softening tannins, though still well-structured and grainy textured. The acidity is discreet, and a round, soft long and spicy finish completes the wine. Match with Middle Eastern red meat dishes over the next 4-5+ years. 120 case production. 18.0/20 Oct 2011 RRP $39.00
Fancrest Estate Waipara Pinot Noir 2008
Pinot Noir from New Zealand – Canterbury & Waipara
16.5/20
Bright, even garnet-red colour with some depth and bricking on the rim. The nose is light and subtle, showing strawberry and dried herbs, the fruit in the cooler spectrum, but with red floral interest and an attractive purity. Medium-light weighted and quite elegant, the flavours of red berry fruits and soft red florals are ethereal in expression, but there is a good core and some concentration through the palate. The fruit is lively, with good acidity and restrained tannin extraction and the wine is well-balanced. Fruit from 5 y.o. vines from the ‘Fancrest' estate, 100% destemmed and wild yeast fermented to 13.0% alc., the wine aged 11 months in approx.. 30% new French oak barriques. A smaller-scale, cooler wine with proper proportions, this will match salmon and tuna, or subtle Asian cuisine over the next 3-4+ years. 16.5/20 Oct 2011 RRP $25.00
Fancrest Estate ‘Di's' Waiprara Pinot Noir 2009
Pinot Noir from New Zealand – Canterbury & Waipara
18+/20
The third crop from 6 y.o. vines from the ‘Fancrest' site, 100% destemmed and wild yeast fermented to 13.0% alc., then aged 6 months in 60% new French oak barriques. Following a fire at the winery where the barrels were stored, 2000 L of the wine was retrieved unaffected and given further maturation in small CP tanks. Moderately deep ruby-red colour with light purple hues on the edge, the aromatics of ripe dark berries and cherries are a little shy. Subtle Asian spice notes with oak and a fresh lift mark the nose, which is tightly bound, but promises to unfold. Medium-bodied, the black fruit flavours are tight, concentrated and show depth and intensity. Cherries, berries spices and dark red florals show, and fine-grained tannins provide support and palate structure. The wine is poised with focus and tension and a long, sustained finish of spices and ripe fruits. This elegant and vibrantly fruited wine shows the potential to unfold over the next 5-7+ years, when it will no doubt merit an even higher rating. Serve with poultry and pork. 18.0+/20 Oct 2011 RRP $39.00
Fancrest Estate ‘Di's' Waipara Pinot Noir 2010
Pinot Noir from New Zealand – Canterbury & Waipara
18-/20
Dark, deep, purple-hued ruby-red, youthful in appearance. This has a softly full, intense bouquet of very ripe black berry fruits, plums, liquorice and spices. Full-bodied, the palate has rich, ripe flavours of black fruits and liquorice with a hint of raisins. There is concentration and power providing real drive, with a little alcohol warmth adding to the generosity. Substantial, supple tannins underline the fruit, and the wine has excellent presence and density, leading to a sweet fruited, spicy-nuanced finish. The fourth crop from the ‘Fancrest' vineyard, fruit totally destemmed and indigenous yeast fermented to 14.0% alc., the wine matured 11 months in 30% new French oak casks. A fully-ripened, fulsome and powerful wine to match with red meat game dishes over the next 5-6 years. 18.0-/20 Oct 2011 RRP $39.00
Green Wines: Organic Pinot from Fancrest Estate by Phil Parker 18/05/2011
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Green Wines: Organic Pinot from Fancrest Estate
Located in Waipara – about an hour north of Christchurch is organic Pinot Noir producer Fancrest Estate. This small, family-owned winery grows exclusively Pinot Noir and is New Zealand BioGro certified.
Owner and winemaker Di Holding recovered the operation after a disastrous winery fire in 2009 all but destroyed the winery and the 2009 vintage. She has now released two Pinots - from 2007 and 2008 respectively. The 2007 is quite grunty and big, whereas the 2008 is a lighter style. More on that later.
Very few NZ wineries subscribe to the very strict, totally organic systems prescribed by organisations such as Bio-Gro NZ, and the international Demeter organisation. Millton Vineyards of Gisborne were Bio-Gro pioneers, operating their vineyards using companion planting, and they don’t use artificial herbicides, fungicides, insecticides or fertilisers. Millton was the first certified organic vineyard in NZ and the fifth oldest in the world.
Biodynamics is a theory of agriculture developed by Austrian philosopher Rudolph Steiner. He saw the farm as a holistic being, where soil health is in balance with nature and also in harmony with phases of the moon. It does sound a tad New Age and wacky, but many sceptics have converted to Biodynamics after seeing a vast improvement in their grape, and wine quality.
Some other Bio-Gro members are: Felton Road, Richmond Plains and Sunset Valley of Nelson, Seresin Estate of Marlborough, Kingsley Estate of Hawkes Bay, and Kawarau Estate of Central Otago.
Other wineries use organic methods but haven’t gone through the full accreditation process – notably Rippon Valley, Stonyridge, and Vynfields.
Anyway to the wines: 2007 Fancrest Estate Di's Pinot Noir $35 A big, chunky Pinot more in the Central Otago style. Aromas of spicy oak and savoury roast meat. Palate of black cherry, dark chocolate and plums with a sweet ripeness and medium to firm tannins.
2008 Fancrest EstatePinot Noir $22.50 Smokey, tar aromas and savoury sweet cherry and raspberry flavours. Lighter style than the 2007 and more of a ‘drink now’ wine.
Fancrest Estate Pinots Noir 2007 and 2008 by Cameron Douglas 09/05/2011
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Monday, 9 May 2011
Fancrest Estate Pinots Noir 2007 and 2008
This is the first time I have encountered Fancrest Wines - unless they were served to me blind in a wine competition - so it was great to be exposed to a different expression of Pinot Noir from the Waipara region.
Fancrest Estate 2008 Pinot NoirWaipara 13%alc. Appearance - transparent red, garnet and strawberry jam hues. N: Varietal - strawberry, red and yellow cherry, plum, red apple skin and light rose petals. Light oak influences are in harmony with the fruit. P: Dry and quite light in body with soft red fruit flavours – strawberry and cherry, oak and fruit tannins are soft and gentle. The texture includes a firm note towards the back palate though. Overall a sound yet light in body Pinot Noir expression – 3 Stars.
Fancrest Estate Di's Pinot Noir 2007 Waipara 13%alc. N: Reflective of a decent vintage – dark spices stewing and black forest cherry, dense strawberry then vanillin toasty oak – overall quite dense and focused, inviting. P: Dry with firm driving tannins then dark cherry; The English breakfast tea and toasty oak tannins seem to have a louder voice than the fruits on this occasion. The dark red cherry and strawberry notes emerge next and quite strong. Overall a sound Pinot Noir expression that requires food to show at its best. I expect this wine will continue to age for another 3 to 5 years and reward those who choose to cellar it for this time. 3.5 Stars.
Posted by Cameron Douglas Master Sommelier at 18:42
Couple with a penchant for pinot Deborah Walton-Derry & Peter Morice 09/06/2011
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Couple with a penchant for pinot
DEBORAH WALTON-DERRY & PETER MORICE
Last updated 13:09 09/06/2011
Di and Ian Holding’s Fancrest Estatevineyard that the couple established in 2002
Pinot Noir is the only variety grown at Ian and Di Holding's Fancrest Estatevineyard that the couple established in 2002. Di Holding is Fancrest's winegrower/winemaker and an advocate for organics – the estate has just received full bioGro certification.
It's unusual to find a pinot noir specialist and once you learn more about the Fancrest story you soon come to the conclusion this is a unique company with a course that has been set on a singular set of ideals. Which is all to the good because the wines we've tried are worth seeking out.
The Holdings are originally from South Africa and it was there that Di began her career as a classical ballerina, later qualifying as a ballet teacher. Following an injury she had to reassess her future and completed an honours degree in Industrial Psychology.
Ian enjoyed a spectacular career as a squash player – both amateur and professional. He captained the national team five times, while also managing to complete his medical studies. His post-graduate training in general surgery, radiology and orthopaedics meant he had skills that would be in demand when the decision was made to emigrate to New Zealand.
Once the Holdings arrived in New Zealand Ian took over a busy general practice in Auckland and Di established herself as an employment advocate.
An interest in wine led to Di deciding to complete a two-year course in viticulture and winemaking through EIT in Hawke's Bay, followed by a BAppSc (wine science) through Charles Sturt University in New South Wales, Australia.
By 2000 Di was becoming interested in the prospect of growing and making pinot noir. While spending some time working at Daniel Schuster Wines (now Omihi Hills) for the 2001 vintage she spent her free time poring over old soil survey maps of the South Island. This research was followed up by some bumpy drives over dusty roads to determine which parcels of land had the right soil, orientation and aspect – and one property in particular met all the criteria. "It wasn't much to look at," says Di, "Just a windswept hillside dotted with a few sheep."
Di approached the farmer and discovered she wasn't the first winemaker to set her sights on the land and negotiations were already under way with another buyer. "The feeling that this was our destiny just wouldn't go away," she says. "So I phoned the farmer a few weeks later to inquire about the sale and he told me to make an offer.
The deal was done in days and after water was found beneath the property a couple of months later, we began making plans to relocate ourselves to Waipara from Auckland."
Di says the move had its tough moments.
"Parting with our sloop Kimberley II was hard – we have so many great memories of time spent sailing around the Hauraki Gulf. Saying goodbye to Ian's patients was also hard, and then there was our lovely home on the cliff above Cockle Bay."
Once the couple had moved south to Waipara, Ian became involved in rural medicine, providing services to Hanmer Springs and Amuri, while Di set about establishing Fancrest Estate. Now, after eight years of flying below the radar Di says it's time to show the world what the estate has been up to.
"The five vintages we've completed demonstrate the potential we saw in this huge limestone fan we established as a vineyard.
"The wines are full of promise but need patience to reveal their full character so we hold them back for additional cellaring in the bottle until we think they're ready to be enjoyed."
This is a good move because the wines show an integration and maturity that adds to the pleasure of the tasting.
Di says her aim is to ensure the wines have a Fancrest "character" and as there are no investors in the company telling her what to do, she is able to ensure there's a strong sense of "who we are" in the wines.
The easiest way to buy Fancrest Pinot Noir is through the website www.fancrest.com.
If you're visiting Christchurch, go to Decant Vintners and Epicures or travelling north of Christchurch, stop at Pukeko Junction.
Fancrest Estate Di'sPinot Noir 2007 ($35.10)An attractive deep, dark ruby red in the glass, the aroma is a magical blend of dark berry-fruit, plums, late season cherries and smoky oak. It's perfumed and layered, displaying tobacco and tar notes.
The palate is fine grained, silky smooth with soft tannins playing a supporting role to sweet juicy fruitiness, warming spice and perfumed aromatics.
Although fruit forward there's plenty of complexity; almond, smoky oak and crisp herbal nuances to provide interest and balance. The finish delivers a lick of juicy fruitiness that lingers. A beauty, and worth seeking out.
After starting out as a ballerina in South Africa and more recently as an employment advocate in Auckland, a "mid-life crisis" made Diane Holding take stock of her career. Several vintages and wine qualifications later, rather than being bound to a desk in the city, she's now to be found out tending her biodynamic vines in the Waipara hills or checking on her prized barrels of pinot noir.
Holding's decision to completely retrain as winemaker-viticulturalist in her late thirties, sell up and invest everything with husband Ian in their Fancrest vineyard may be a somewhat extreme path into wine. However, she's one of an increasing number of people entering New Zealand's rapidly expanding wine industry and finding their dream job there.
If you've ever contemplated a career as a winemaker or viticulturalist, be warned: the hours are long, the work is often physically demanding and the level of expertise required is high.
"It's not as romantic a business as a lot of people think," agrees Glen Creasy, co-ordinator for the Viticulture and Oenology courses at Lincoln University, New Zealand's main centre for wine study.
"There's a lot of hard work involved, but a lot of the people we get in here are very enthusiastic about it and are looking for the lifestyle associated with the industry."
Before committing to a wine course, he recommends budding vignerons to get some experience in working in a winery and vineyard, ideally in a range of countries. "This will help in them in developing their own style and deciding on what kind of position they would like in the industry," he advises.
"You really need to be confident, thick-skinned, adaptable and full of energy," says Seresin winemaker, Clive Dougall. "Above all, you need to have a burning passion for wine."
So if you think you've got what it takes, how do you go about becoming a winemaker or viticulturalist? There are those who are completely self-taught, who've usually spent many years learning their craft on the job. However, most have studied for professional qualifications offered by educational establishments across the country, such as the three-year viticulture and oenology degree taught at Lincoln, or the one-year honours or graduate diploma course popular with graduates switching to wine after starting their studies in another discipline.
There are also many other institutions that offer other courses of varying length and depth. And if you're unable to travel to one of these, there are a number of distance learning options, such as the correspondence course from Australia's Charles Sturt University taken by Holding, or the recently instigated online diploma in viticulture and wine production offered by the Nelson Marlborough Institute of Technology.
Those bitten by the winemaking/growing bug revel in the creativity of the role and being part of the production of such a fascinating product surrounded by people who share their passion.
As for Holding, there's no going back to that desk in Auckland. "I have absolutely no regrets," she states, "just don't ask me that in the middle of a difficult harvest!"
Bob Campbell is one of only 264 Masters of Wine in the world. An international wine judge, Bob judges wine professionally in ten countries and contributes regularly to publications around the world. His specialty is 
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